We ate at Per Se in early December 2009. It is a wonderful space with panoramic views over Central Park, high ceilings, enormous windows and an inviting fire. The tables are generously spaced. The service was excellent but not exqiusite. The food was outstanding but not sublime as one might expect given the reastaurant's three star Michelin rating.
The choices at Per Se are usually among a number of different tasting menus: chef's, vegetarian, and one specializing in offal. We both had the chef's tasting menu which comprised about eight separate courses with some additional courses at the discretion of the kitchen. Although I enjoy both the convenience and surprise of tasting menus, I get jaded at about course number six. The standout courses on this particular evening were the very substantial salmon amuse bouche, winter vegetables in a deliciously light broth, and the lamb. The two dessert courses were unremarkable as was the oxtail meat course. We had a Condrieu to accompany the earlier courses and then an excellent Chateau du Tetre 2004.
While the food was outstanding, there was nothing I ate that was especially memorable, in fact not one dish that has not already faded from my gustatory memory. I expected better of Mr. Keller but perhaps it is unfair to judge on the basis of one meal.
My rating
(Michelin scale) **
(NYT's scale) ****
