Sea Change

There are many things to like about Sea Change, the main restaurant at the Guthrie theatre complex, that will shortly celebrate its first birthday. The space is spectacular with large windows, plenty of light, generously spaced tables and great views of the Mississippi river. It has a lively modern bar and a wonderful section with stool seating around the raw bar and kitchen. The wine list is carefully chosen and fairly priced. The focus on sustainable fish and shellfish is admirable though there are some non fish choices.

I first ate at Sea Change shortly after it opened in 2009 and visited it again recently. On neither visit was I impressed by the food. Although the food is good, it does not measure up to the standard set by Chef Tim McKee at La Belle Vie, his other high end restaurant. It is difficult to pinpoint exactly the problem though I think that for many dishes it may be related to an heroic effort to camouflage that one is actually eating fish. For example, the octopus starter, which has become something of a 'signature dish', is more reminiscent of a chicken wing with a sweet glaze, than the briny chewy delicacy it can often be. On one visit, I had halibut wrapped in prosciutto which had lost its identity completely and tasted as if it had sweated to death. Sometimes there are just too many contrasting tastes and textures as was the case with salmon belly in a Japanese preparation of noodles, vegetables and pork. Where the restaurant does excel is in much simpler preparations such as the Loch Duart salmon and the yellowfin tuna both on the current menu. In summary, Sea Change is a very pleasant place to eat where one can find good food but below the level achieved by Chef McKee at some of this other restaurants.

Alle Testiere, Venice, Italy

Eleven years ago Alle Testiere http://www.osterialletestiere.it/ had convinced me that one could find good food in Venice. On a return visit, I was even more impressed. The restaurant is on a tiny street near the church of Campo S.Maria Fermosa and very easy to miss. There are only seven tables which can accomodate not many more than twenty diners thus reservations are essential. It is run by an ebullient host, Luca. The philosophy of the kitchen is to cook simply using fresh local ingredients almost exclusively fish and shellfish.
The room is small but cosy; the combined area of the dining room and kitchen is perhaps smaller than that of many domestic mega-kitchens in the U.S. We went for lunch and therefore did not sample the full range of the menu. The fillets of turbot in a caper and wine sauce was superb, as was the spaghetti with clams and the shellfish antipasti. The wine list is small, well-selected and well-priced; Luca can provide wonderful advice as the sommelier. If you happen to be in Venice, this restaurant should not be missed.

Met, Venice, Italy

The city of Venice has an undeservedly poor reputation for food. In my two visits to the waterlogged art lovers paradise, I have been favorably impressed by the quality of the cuisine as long as one avoids the restaurants in the immediate vicinity of St. Marco and Rialto and those pushing pizza and 'menu touristico'.

The Met, with Corrado Fasolato in the kitchen, is the restaurant at the Metropolitan Hotel and the only two star Michelin establishment in the city. The dining room itself is sumptuous, as is the hotel lobby, with a small number of widely-spaced tables. We sampled the five course tasting menu ($130 per person) though one could also choose an eleven course 'surprise' menu or order a la carte. The wine list which focused primarily on Italian wines was extensive and as one might expect expensive. The service was flawless and the sommelier quite knowledgable. The amuse bouche was an outstanding tuna 'hamburger' smothered in a variety of foams of different temperatues, flavors and colors; one of the best tiny morsels I have experienced. Another course was a very original version of beef cheeks based on a sweet and sour theme; in this instance, the sweet and sour tastes were provided by vegetable purees and foams. The dessert courses were also excellent. The only culinary disappointment of the evening was a dish with salt cod which was bland in the extreme. Overall, this was one of the best meals I have had in several years and I plan a return visit when next in Venice.

Per Se, NYC

We ate at Per Se in early December 2009. It is a wonderful space with panoramic views over Central Park, high ceilings, enormous windows and an inviting fire. The tables are generously spaced. The service was excellent but not exqiusite. The food was outstanding but not sublime as one might expect given the reastaurant's three star Michelin rating.

The choices at Per Se are usually among a number of different tasting menus: chef's, vegetarian, and one specializing in offal. We both had the chef's tasting menu which comprised about eight separate courses with some additional courses at the discretion of the kitchen. Although I enjoy both the convenience and surprise of tasting menus, I get jaded at about course number six. The standout courses on this particular evening were the very substantial salmon amuse bouche, winter vegetables in a deliciously light broth, and the lamb. The two dessert courses were unremarkable as was the oxtail meat course. We had a Condrieu to accompany the earlier courses and then an excellent Chateau du Tetre 2004.

While the food was outstanding, there was nothing I ate that was especially memorable, in fact not one dish that has not already faded from my gustatory memory. I expected better of Mr. Keller but perhaps it is unfair to judge on the basis of one meal.

My rating
(Michelin scale) **
(NYT's scale) ****