Tuesday, April 06, 2010

Alle Testiere, Venice, Italy

Eleven years ago Alle Testiere http://www.osterialletestiere.it/ had convinced me that one could find good food in Venice. On a return visit, I was even more impressed. The restaurant is on a tiny street near the church of Campo S.Maria Fermosa and very easy to miss. There are only seven tables which can accomodate not many more than twenty diners thus reservations are essential. It is run by an ebullient host, Luca. The philosophy of the kitchen is to cook simply using fresh local ingredients almost exclusively fish and shellfish.
The room is small but cosy; the combined area of the dining room and kitchen is perhaps smaller than that of many domestic mega-kitchens in the U.S. We went for lunch and therefore did not sample the full range of the menu. The fillets of turbot in a caper and wine sauce was superb, as was the spaghetti with clams and the shellfish antipasti. The wine list is small, well-selected and well-priced; Luca can provide wonderful advice as the sommelier. If you happen to be in Venice, this restaurant should not be missed.

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