Met, Venice, Italy

The city of Venice has an undeservedly poor reputation for food. In my two visits to the waterlogged art lovers paradise, I have been favorably impressed by the quality of the cuisine as long as one avoids the restaurants in the immediate vicinity of St. Marco and Rialto and those pushing pizza and 'menu touristico'.

The Met, with Corrado Fasolato in the kitchen, is the restaurant at the Metropolitan Hotel and the only two star Michelin establishment in the city. The dining room itself is sumptuous, as is the hotel lobby, with a small number of widely-spaced tables. We sampled the five course tasting menu ($130 per person) though one could also choose an eleven course 'surprise' menu or order a la carte. The wine list which focused primarily on Italian wines was extensive and as one might expect expensive. The service was flawless and the sommelier quite knowledgable. The amuse bouche was an outstanding tuna 'hamburger' smothered in a variety of foams of different temperatues, flavors and colors; one of the best tiny morsels I have experienced. Another course was a very original version of beef cheeks based on a sweet and sour theme; in this instance, the sweet and sour tastes were provided by vegetable purees and foams. The dessert courses were also excellent. The only culinary disappointment of the evening was a dish with salt cod which was bland in the extreme. Overall, this was one of the best meals I have had in several years and I plan a return visit when next in Venice.